Owner Scorecard


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ZGN, Ermenegildo Zegna N.V.

Textiles & Apparel consumer brand Cyclical

Ermenegildo Zegna Group operates in the personal luxury goods market, which includes the following product segments: accessories, jewelry, beauty, apparel and watches.

Legacy, Italian craftsmanship, quality and innovation are key ingredients of its three complementary brands: ZEGNA, Thom Browne and TOM FORD FASHION.

Through them, the Group's reach expands to touch different communities, from the absolute iconic luxury, with its eponymous brand ZEGNA, to modern tailoring, with Thom Browne, to seductive luxury, with TOM FORD FASHION.

Latest annual: FY2025 20-F · figures as filed, in EUR
ZGN · Ermenegildo Zegna N.V.
I

The business

What it sells, where the money comes from, the kind of company it is.

Revenue · FY2025
€1.9B
−1.5% YoY · 14% 5-yr CAGR
Vital signs · TTM, with 5-yr average
Revenue €1.9B 5-yr avg €1.7B
Gross margin 68% 5-yr avg 64%
Operating margin 7.3% 5-yr avg 5.9%
ROIC 11% 5-yr avg 10%
Owner-earnings margin 13% 5-yr avg 11%
Free cash flow margin 13% 5-yr avg 11%

The business in brief

read the 10-K →

What this business is and what moves its needle, from its own SEC filings.

What it is
Revenue is led by ZEGNA brand (62%) and Tom Ford Fashion (17%), with 2 more lines behind.
Situation
Cyclical. Margins collapse and recover repeatedly across the record; a single year, good or bad, misstates the through-cycle earning power.
What moves the needle
Gross margin has run about 64% and operating margin about 7.3% through the cycle, a wide spread between price and the cost of what it sells — whether that advantage is durable pricing power or a margin that can erode is the question the record is for. The operating margin has swung widely — from −7.3% to 11% — on a steadier 64% gross margin, so what moves it sits below the gross line, in operating spend and one-off charges more than in the cost of the product itself. Inventory runs near 27% of sales, so how fast it turns back into cash — and the risk of writing it down when demand softens — sits alongside the margin. On its own account, the filing leans hardest on pricing power & competition, set against the numbers in what the filing emphasizes, below.
Is it a good business?
Return on capital has sat near the cost of capital (median 11%). By owner earnings: roughly 10% of revenue reaches owners as cash, consistently. The cycle and the balance sheet decide this one; the worst year tells more than the median, and the rest is in the 10-K.

Every line is arithmetic on the company's filings, shown in full in the sections below.

Where the money comes from

read the 20-F →

ZEGNA brand is 62% of revenue, with Tom Ford Fashion the other meaningful line at 17%.

Revenue by product line, FY2025
  • ZEGNA brand62%€1.2B
  • Tom Ford Fashion17%€317M
  • Thom Browne14%€268M
  • Textile7%€134M
  • Other1%€16M
By geographyAmericas30%United States25%Greater China Region23%Rest of APAC12%Italy12%Netherlands1%Other0%

From the segment footnote of the company's own 20-F. Shares are of total revenue; the profit bar shows each segment's share of segment operating profit, before unallocated corporate costs.

II

The record

Ten years of arithmetic, read across the cycle.

The record, 2019–2025

realized figures from each filing · older years to the left
2019’192020’202021’212022’222023’232024’242025’25TTMTTMDec 2025
Income statement
€1.3B€1.0B€1.3B€1.5B€1.9B€1.9B€1.9B€1.9BRevenueRevenue
€797M€928M€1.2B€1.3B€1.3B€1.3BGross profitGross prof.
62%62%64%67%68%68%Gross marginGross mgn
€89M(€23M)(€94M)€148M€208M€167M€139M€139MOperating incomeOp. inc.
6.7%−2.2%−7.3%9.9%10.9%8.6%7.3%7.3%Operating marginOp. mgn
€22M(€51M)(€136M)€51M€122M€77M€99M€99MNet incomeNet inc.
41%22%34%24%24%Effective tax rateTax rate
Cash flow & returns
€174M€71M€281M€146M€275M€279M€336M€336MOperating cash flowOp. cash
€168M€166M€155M€172M€193M€225M€245M€245MDepreciationDeprec.
(€16M)(€45M)€262M(€77M)(€39M)(€23M)(€8M)(€8M)Working capital & otherWC & other
€46M€28M€80M€49M€57M€100M€81M€81MCapexCapex
3.5%2.7%6.2%3.3%3.0%5.1%4.2%4.2%Capex / revenueCapex/rev
€128M€43M€201M€97M€218M€179M€255M€255MOwner earningsOwner earn.
9.7%4.3%15.6%6.5%11.5%9.2%13.3%13.3%Owner earnings marginOE mgn
€128M€43M€201M€97M€218M€179M€255M€255MFree cash flowFCF
9.7%4.3%15.6%6.5%11.5%9.2%13.3%13.3%Free cash flow marginFCF mgn
€0€0€102K€22M€25M€30M€30M€30MDividends paidDiv. paid
€0€0€455M€0€0BuybacksBuybacks
9%-2%-12%14%25%12%11%11%ROICROIC
3%-8%-23%8%14%8%10%10%Return on equityROE
3%−8%−23%4%11%5%7%7%Retained to equityRetained/eq
Balance sheet
€211M€667M€800M€575M€387M€296M€298M€298MCash & investmentsCash+inv
€139M€160M€177M€240M€249M€227M€227MReceivablesReceiv.
€321M€338M€411M€523M€521M€507M€507MInventoryInvent.
€188M€223M€271M€314M€310M€326M€326MAccounts payablePayables
€272M€276M€317M€449M€460M€408M€408MOperating working capitalOper. WC
€1.2B€1.4B€1.3B€1.3B€1.2B€1.2B€1.2BCurrent assetsCur. assets
€535M€702M€867M€1.0B€853M€750M€750MCurrent liabilitiesCur. liab.
2.3×2.0×1.5×1.3×1.4×1.6×1.6×Current ratioCurr. ratio
€244M€111M€126M€160M€205M€211M€211MNet PP&ENet PP&E
€420M€388M€425M€456M€572M€614M€554M€554MGoodwillGoodwill
€2.4B€2.5B€2.4B€2.8B€2.8B€2.8B€2.8BTotal assetsAssets
€559M€472M€185M€113M€196M€162M€162MTotal debtDebt
(€109M)(€329M)(€390M)(€274M)(€100M)(€135M)(€135M)Net debt / (cash)Net debt
2.4×-0.5×-2.1×2.7×3.1×3.2×2.8×2.8×Interest coverageInt. cov.
€730M€602M€601M€679M€840M€916M€1.0B€1.0BShareholders’ equityEquity
Per share
202M201M203M238M247M252M260M260MShares out (diluted)Shares
€6.56€5.04€6.35€6.28€7.71€7.74€7.38€7.38Revenue / shareRev/sh
€0.11€-0.25€-0.67€0.22€0.49€0.31€0.38€0.38EPS (diluted)EPS
€0.64€0.21€0.99€0.41€0.88€0.71€0.98€0.98Owner earnings / shareOE/sh
€0.64€0.21€0.99€0.41€0.88€0.71€0.98€0.98Free cash flow / shareFCF/sh
€0.00€0.00€0.00€0.09€0.10€0.12€0.12€0.12Dividends / shareDiv/sh
€0.23€0.14€0.39€0.21€0.23€0.40€0.31€0.31Cap. spending / shareCapex/sh
€3.62€2.99€2.95€2.86€3.40€3.64€3.97€3.97Book value / shareBVPS
Per-share growththe realized rate an owner's share compounded
6-yr5-yr
Revenue / share+2.0%/yr+8.0%/yr
Owner earnings / share+7.5%/yr+35.5%/yr
EPS+23.3%/yr
Capital spending / share+5.2%/yr+17.7%/yr
Book value / share+1.6%/yr+5.9%/yr

Where the cash went

ReinvestBuybacksDividendsAcquisitionsRetained

Each year's operating cash, by what management did with it: the mix, and how it drifts.

FY2019FY2025

Net income is the accountant's number; owner earnings is the cash an owner could take out. The walk between them, off the cash-flow statement, and whether the gap is widening or holding.

In fiscal 2025 the business turned €99M of profit into €255M of owner earnings: more cash than the profit line showed, after the non-cash charges and the capital it put back in.

Reported net income€99M
Owner earnings€255M · 13% of revenue
FY2025FY2024FY2023FY2022FY2021
Reported net income€99M€77M€122M€51M(€136M)
Depreciation & amortizationnon-cash charge added back+€245M+€225M+€193M+€172M+€155M
Working capital & othertiming of cash in and out, other non-cash items−€8M−€23M−€39M−€77M+€262M
Cash from operations€336M€279M€275M€146M€281M
Capital expenditurecash put back in to keep running and to grow−€81M−€100M−€57M−€49M−€80M
Owner earnings€255M€179M€218M€97M€201M
Owner-earnings marginowner earnings ÷ revenue13%9%11%7%16%

Owner earnings is the cash an owner could pull out without starving the business: operating cash less the capital it must spend to hold its position .

Maintenance capex is estimated as depreciation where a growing business invests above it; free cash flow is the figure the scorecard's free-cash margin reads.

III

Quality & stewardship

Returns, the balance sheet, capital allocation, and pay.

Owner’s Scorecard

FY2025 20-F · source on SEC EDGAR →
Material weakness in financial controls
“For further details on previously identified material weaknesses and the remediation steps that we have taken to remediate them, see "Item 15.—Controls and Procedures—Management's Annual Report on Internal Control Over Financial Reporting."”

The figures below are only as sound as the controls that produced them. read the note →

Will it survive?

  • Adequate
    Operating income €139M ÷ interest expense €50M
    What this means

    Comfortable in a normal year, but below the margin of safety Graham looked for. Worth checking how stable the coverage has been across a full cycle.

  • Net cash
    Cash €220M + ST investments €77M − debt €162M
    What this means

    Cash and short-term investments exceed every dollar of debt by €135M, on net the company owes nothing, and can act from strength when others can't. Net debt is the leverage figure that matters: the cash is already set against the debt. Strategic or illiquid investments aren't counted here.

  • Long (60+ days)
    DSO 43 + DIO 297 − DPO 191 days
    What this means

    Days cash is tied up between paying suppliers and collecting from customers. Lower is better; a long cycle means growth itself eats cash.

Is it a good business?

  • Solid through the cycle
    7-yr median, range -12%–25%; 11% latest = NOPAT €106M ÷ invested capital €973M
    Industry peers: median 15%
    What this means

    The rate the business earns on the money tied up in it, Buffett's north star, because over time a stock tracks the ROIC beneath it. Above ~15% sustained hints at a moat; a return below the cost of capital (~8%) erodes value as a business grows rather than building it — the test Buffett weighs most. The headline is the median of the last 7 years (it ran 11% most recently), so one peak or trough year doesn't set the verdict. Asset-light businesses (R&D expensed, little capital) read artificially high, pair this with Owner Earnings.

  • Solid through the cycle
    7-yr median margin, range 4%–16%; latest €255M = operating cash €336M − maintenance capex €81M
    Industry peers: median 5%
    What this means

    What an owner could take out without starving the business: operating cash less the maintenance capital it must spend to hold its position — Buffett's owner earnings. That's 13% of revenue this year, a 10% median across 7 years.

  • Cash-backed
    Cash from ops €336M ÷ net income €99M

    In the filing’s words The filing discloses a material weakness in its financial controls — the reported numbers here, and the record built on them, are only as reliable as the controls that produced them.

    What this means

    How much of reported profit showed up as operating cash. Above 1× is reassuring; well below suggests earnings lean on accruals. One year is noisy, growth and working-capital swings distort it, and this is operating cash, not free cash. Watch the multi-year trend.

How is the cash used?

  • Reinvests most of it
    Dividends + buybacks €30M ÷ Owner Earnings €255M — this fiscal year
    What this means

    Of €255M Owner Earnings, €30M (12%) went back to shareholders, €30M dividends, €0 buybacks. Returning most of it is the mark of a mature business with little left to reinvest at a high return; reinvesting most could mean a long runway, or empire-building. The split doesn't say which; the return earned on it (see ROIC) does. This year's proportion is 12%; across the record (2019–2025) it is 50%, the capital-allocation section below.

  • Investing or harvesting? 0.33×
    Harvesting
    Capex €81M ÷ depreciation €245M
    What this means

    Descriptive, not a grade. Above ~1× means investing faster than assets wear out (growth, or, sustained for years, today's earnings carrying less depreciation than tomorrow's will). Below means spending less than it's wearing out (efficiency, or a melting asset base). The ratio won't tell you which; the filings will.

Graham’s defensive tests · 1 of 4 met

Graham’s numerical criteria for the defensive investor (The Intelligent Investor, ch. 14), run on the filings. A floor of safety, not a buy signal; many fine modern businesses fail his strictest liquidity rules by design.

  • Adequate size
    Revenue ≥ $2B (a dollar floor) · €1.9B
    What this means

    Big enough to weather a storm. Graham's floor is a dollar figure — about $2B of revenue as a conservative modern stand-in. This company reports in its home currency and we carry no exchange rate, so we show the figure and leave the size bar for you to apply rather than convert it with a number we don't have.

  • Strong liquidity Near
    Current ratio ≥ 2× · 1.59×
    What this means

    Current assets at least twice current liabilities, near-term bills covered without touching the business. Strict by design: many cash-rich modern firms run leaner and miss it, holding their cushion in longer-dated securities.

  • Conservative debt Pass
    Debt ≤ working capital · €162M vs €440M WC
    What this means

    Graham's rule that borrowings not exceed net current assets. Capital-heavy and buyback-heavy firms routinely fail it, read it next to interest coverage, not alone.

  • Earnings stability Miss
    A profit every year (7-yr record) · 2 loss years
    What this means

    Graham wanted earnings in each of the past ten years, the stability a defensive owner leans on.

  • Dividend record Miss
    Uninterrupted dividends · 5 of 7 yrs
    What this means

    An unbroken dividend was Graham's mark of durability. He wanted twenty years; the filings show about ten, and a single suspension breaks the streak. Non-payers, many fine modern compounders, fall outside his defensive net by design.

  • Earnings growth
    Earnings +33% over the record ·
    What this means

    Earnings were negative early in the record, a growth rate isn't meaningful.

  • Moderate price
    P/E ≤ 15 and P/E × P/B ≤ 22.5 · decided by the price
    What this means

    Graham's valuation gate, the wall he kept between a sound business and a sound investment. Three-year average earnings are €0.38/share (latest year €0.38), the averaged base the calculator's gate runs on, and book value is €3.97/share. Enter a price in “What the price implies” just below for the P/E, P/B, and whether it clears. But this is the rule Buffett outgrew: there's no hard P/E law, and a wonderful business can deserve a far richer multiple if the thesis holds, treat it as the bargain-hunter's floor, not a verdict on the price.

Durability & moat, 2019–2025

Whether the record’s returns held, and what the capital reinvested earned.

  • Profitable years 5 of 7
    What this means

    Lost money in 2 year(s), look at what happened there before trusting the average.

  • Return on capital ≥ 15% 1 of 6 yrs
    What this means

    A moat shows up as a high return on invested capital that holds year after year, not one good vintage.

  • Operating margin −1% → 9% (3-yr avg ends)

    In the filing’s words The record and the words agree: the margin widened and the filing attributes the gain to its own pricing, not volume alone.

    What this means

    Through the cycle the operating margin widened — about −1% early to 9% lately, median 7% — pricing power intact or improving.

  • Reinvestment, incremental ROIC returns capital
    What this means

    The capital base barely grew: this business returns cash through dividends and buybacks rather than reinvesting. Judge it on the cash returned, not on compounding.

  • Owner earnings growth +17%/yr
    What this means

    Owner earnings grew about 17% a year over the record.

  • Worst year 2021 · −7.3% op. margin
    What this means

    Operations went underwater in 2021, understand why before trusting the good years.

  • Share count +4.3%/yr
    What this means

    The share count is rising, dilution works against you on a per-share basis.

  • Dividend record rising
    What this means

    Paid and raised the dividend across the record, the continuity Graham prized.

All figures as filed; the source filing is linked above.

Current Position

as of fiscal year-end, Dec 31, 2025

Can the business pay what it owes this year, off the freshest balance sheet: the quality of the assets, the debt actually coming due, and what a low ratio means here.

Current assets€1.2B
  • Cash & short-term investments€298M
  • Receivables€227M
  • Inventory€507M
  • Other current assets€159M
Current liabilities€750M
  • Accounts payable€326M
  • Other current liabilities€424M
Current ratio1.59×all current assets ÷ what's due · Graham looked for 2×
Quick ratio0.91×stricter: inventory excluded
Cash ratio0.40×strictest: cash alone against what's due
Working capital€440Mthe cushion left after near-term bills
Deeper floors
Tangible book value€477Mequity stripped of goodwill & intangibles
Debt incl. operating leases€894M€732M of it operating leases

From the company's latest filing.

How the cash was used, 2019–2025

Over the record, the business generated €1.6B of operating cash; how management split it reads as a balanced allocator, splitting cash between the business, owners, and the balance sheet.

  • Reinvested€440M · 28%
  • Dividends€108M · 7%
  • Buybacks€455M · 29%
  • Retained (debt / cash)€560M · 36%
  • Returned to owners€563M

    50% of the owner earnings the business produced over the span, €108M as dividends and €455M as buybacks.

  • Average price paid for buybacks

    Buybacks ran €455M over the span, but the filings don't tag the share count needed to deduce the average price paid.

  • Net change in share count28.8%

    The diluted count rose from 202M to 260M: issuance (stock pay, deals) outran any buybacks, so owners were diluted on net.

  • Dividend record€0.12/sh

    Paid in 5 of the years on record. It was never cut over the span.

Buybacks are gross of stock issued to staff; the share-count line above is the net of that, the figure that decides whether owners gained. The average price paid blends a year of purchases (and any accelerated repurchase), so it is close, not exact. The record of where the cash went and on what terms.

Peers, Textiles & Apparel

The same industry, side by side on owner economics. Each column names the period it is read over, and a median resting on fewer than three years carries that count beside it; the group median at the foot is the line to read each figure against.

CompanyRevenuelatest FY, USDGross marginmedian over the recordOp. marginmedian over the recordROICmedian over the recordOwner earn. marginmedian over the record
LULUlululemon athletica inc.$11.1B56%20.6%58%14%
ASAmer Sports Inc.$6.6B52%6.9%8%1y4%
LEVILevi Strauss & Co$6.3B58%9.8%23%5%
GILGildan Activewear Inc. Class A Sub. Vot.$3.6B28%15.9%15%14%
COLMColumbia Sportswear$3.4B50%10.7%18%10%
ZGNErmenegildo Zegna N.V.as filed: €1.9B64%7.3%11%10%
LANVLanvin Group Holdings Limitedas filed: €291M56%-47.6%-48%-25%
NCINeo-Concept International Group Holdings Limitedas filed: HK$137M20%4.9%10%-2%
Group median54%8.5%13%8%
IV

The price

What a price has to assume.

What the price implies

reverse-DCF

Enter the home-market price, not the US ADR quote. Ermenegildo Zegna N.V. reports in EUR, and every figure here (owner earnings, book value, the share count) is on that EUR, ordinary-share basis. Enter the price on the same basis: the local-exchange quote per ordinary share in EUR. A US ADR price in dollars bundles the ADR-to-ordinary ratio and the exchange rate, so it will not reconcile with these figures and would throw the multiple off.

Type today's close and see the owner-earnings growth you'd have to believe to justify it, beside what Ermenegildo Zegna N.V. has delivered.

Ermenegildo Zegna N.V.’s latest year runs above its own through-cycle margin — the reported figure may flatter a peak. So the tool opens on the through-cycle base, Graham’s averaging cutting both ways; clear the toggle below to read the latest year exactly as reported.

Through the cycle, Ermenegildo Zegna N.V. earns about €186M on its 9.7% median owner-earnings margin. This year’s 13.3% margin runs above that; the reported figure may flatter a peak you'd be paying on. Normalize, below, values the price on that through-cycle figure rather than the latest year. It comes pre-checked here for that reason, the same rule that already normalizes a trough; clear it to price the year as filed.

Base

The assumptions

9.0% = the 4.71% 10-year Treasury (Aug 18, 2026) + 4.29 points of equity premium. The rate you require is yours to set.

Enter a price above to run it.

Implied by the price
Owner-earnings growth · ’21→’25+10%/yr
Owner-earnings growth · ’19→’25+17%/yr
Owner-earnings yield
P/E (3-yr earnings ’23–’25)
P/B
Graham’s price gate

Graham capped the multiple at 15×; Buffett and Munger let that rule go: a wonderful business can deserve 50× if the thesis holds. The gate marks the bargain-hunter's floor.

Against a high-grade bond: Graham’s yardstick bond yield%

Prefilled with the 10-year Treasury (4.71%, as of Aug 18, 2026). Edit it for today’s exact figure, or a AAA corporate yield.

Graham measured a stock against the bond you could own instead, the heart of his margin of safety. Enter a price above to weigh the owner-earnings yield against this bond.

Owner earnings €255M on 260M shares outstanding (a weighted average, the only count this filer tags); net cash €135M. The base opens on the through-cycle figure (the latest year sits above the record’s own median, and Graham’s averaging cuts both ways); clear Normalize to use the year as filed. Net of stock comp treats option pay as the expense it is. The dials set the multiple a growth belief justifies; the price, and every dollar on this page, is yours.

Cite: Owner Scorecard, "Ermenegildo Zegna N.V. (ZGN), the owner's record," https://ownerscorecard.com/c/ZGN, data as of 2026-08-17.

Manual order: ← ZENA its page in the Manual ZH →

Industry order: ← VFC the Textiles & Apparel chapter